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Paris, 7 January 2010
Previous research has shown the complex nature of cosmetics used by Egyptians some 4000 years ago (3). Most-often lead-based, Egyptian eyeliners were made of a mixture of black galena (a lead sulfate) and of white substances, either natural or synthesized from lead salts. In their written works, Greek and Roman physicians made much of the role of these substances in eye care. Now that lead is more often known for its potential toxicity, this therapeutic usage may seem surprising.
What was the function of the lead salts? To answer this question, the researchers looked into laurionite, a lead chlorate among the salts synthesized by the ancient Egyptians, and at its action on an isolated skin cell. Laurionite can trigger the presence of Pb2+ lead ions in the eye or on the skin, at infinitesimally small (sub-micromolar) concentrations. Its activity on the cells of the epidermis (keratinocytes) was studied thanks to a modern electrochemical tool, the ultramicroelectrode. This miniature device has a remarkable capacity to analyze the very weak signals produced by single cells. After depositing very small quantities of laurionite (4) solution on a keratinocyte, the scientists were able to observe the overproduction of tens of thousands of NO° nitrogen monoxide molecules. This radical (5) appears as a messenger from the immune system, playing a major role in the regulation of blood pressure. It stimulates the arrival of macrophages, cells which ingest bacteria, and favors their passing through capillary and blood vessel walls.
Conclusion: an Egyptian with an eye painted with black eyeliner had his/her tears enriched in Pb2+ ions, after the eyeliner dissolved slightly, which stimulated the production of macrophages. The latter created an inhospitable environment for any bacteria that may appear there accidentally. This explains the therapeutic properties of ancient Egyptian eyeliners, and makes it easier to understand why ancient Egyptians believed eyeliners to be emanations from the eyes of the protective gods Horus and Ra.

© © C2RMF, D. Vigears
Detail from a painting inside the sarcophagus of Tanethereret (Musée du Louvre).
1 - This team of researchers is led by Christian Amatore, CNRS researcher at the « Processus d'Activation Sélective par Transfert d'Energie Uni-électronique ou Radiatif » research group (UPMC / CNRS / ENS Paris).
2 - Centre de recherche et de restauration des musées de France (CNRS / ministère de la Culture et de la Communication)
3 - The formula for Egyptian eye make-up is described in: Ph. Walter et al., Making make-up in Ancient Egypt. Nature, 397, 483-484 (1999).
4 - up to 0,2 µmol, simulating a very weak solubilization of lead salts
5 - Said of any molecule with a single electron.
Finding out Egyptian Gods' secret using analytical chemistry: biomedical properties of Egyptian black makeup revealed by amperometry at single cells. Issa Tapsoda, Stéphane Arbault, Philippe Walter, Christian Amatore. Analytical Chemistry. 15 January 2010.
CNRS researchers l Philippe Walter l T 01 40 20 59 89 l philippe.walter@culture.gouv.fr
Christian Amatore l T 01 44 32 33 88 l christian.amatore@ens.fr
CNRS press office l Priscilla Dacher l T 01 44 96 46 06 l priscilla.dacher@cnrs-dir.fr
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